Victorian
The Inchiquin Emerald
The Inchiquin Emerald, Victorian circa 1890. This exceptional convertible jewel is set to the centre with a 5.67ct antique Colombian emerald, with no clarity enhancement, set within yellow gold claws and framed by twelve old mine cut diamonds, this surrounded within a further eight larger old European cut diamonds, each one accented by diamond points, totalling approximately 10.50ct. The gemstones are all mounted in silver and gold, with a fixed loop to the reverse, allowing the jewel to be worn as a pendant or alternatively, can be attached to it's bangle fitting, which is formed of three parallel gold wires and secures with a box clasp and safety chain.
POA
Information
Subtitle
Victorian
Period
1750-1900
Period
circa 1890
Gemstone
5.67ct antique Colombian emerald, no indications of clarity enhancement, with SSEF certificate and Appendix letter naming it an 'Exceptional Emerald'
8 x old European cut diamonds, estimated total 9.10ct
28 x small old-cut diamonds, estimated total 1.40ct
Setting
Silver and gold
Dimensions
Emerald and diamond cluster jewel: 3.9cm x 3.7cm (1.53" x 1.45")
Bangle inner circumference: 16"/ 6.3"
Weight Description
36.6 grams
REF
130228
Provenance
Given to Lady Ethel Jane Foster on the occasion of her marriage to Lord Lucius William O’Brien, eldest son of the 14th Baron Inchiquin. The wedding took place on the 14th January 1896 at Richard’s Castle, near Ludlow in Shropshire.
Four years later in 1900, Lucius succeeded his father’s peerage, serving as an Irish Representative Peer in the House of Lords and taking the title of 15th Baron Inchiquin. Further inherited titles included Chief of the Name of O’Brien and Prince of Thomond in the Gaelic Irish nobility. The title of Baron Inchiquin is one of the oldest in the Peerage of Ireland, originally created in 1543 by King Henry VIII, for Murrough O’Brien; a direct descendant of the High King of Ireland Brian Boru (c.941-1014). Brian Boru is generally regarded as the last true High King of Ireland as he was the final king to exercise real authority over the majority of the island.
The bracelet is referred to in Ethel’s last will and testament, written in 1939, as “…my large emerald and diamond bracelet given me by my mother on my marriage…” She passed the following year, in 1940. Lord Lucius and Lady Ethel had six children and the jewel remained in the family by descent before its acquisition by Hancocks London.
Director’s Notes
The importance of this jewel has several layers, its provenance, its gemmological excellence and, importantly, the fact that it is a beautiful jewel in its own right, as well as a great example of Victorian craftsmanship. The jewel was given to Ethel Jane Foster on her marriage to the Honourable Lucius William O’Brien in 1896, later to become the 15th Baron Inchiquin. It passed by descent through the O’Brien family, whose lineage traces back to Brian Boru, the 11th-century High King of Ireland. It is also documented in Lady Inchiquin’s 1939 will as her “large emerald and diamond bracelet”, giving the piece the kind of named, traceable provenance so highly prized by collectors. Its gemmological importance is equally rare. The 5.67ct Colombian emerald originates from the Cordillera Oriental, the emerald-bearing region associated with the famous Muzo, Coscuez and Chivor mines. It displays a vivid green colour and fine crystal quality, with no indications of clarity enhancement, a rarity for emeralds, particularly one of this size. So much so, it has received an additional Appendix letter from SSEF, naming it an “Exceptional Emerald”. An Appendix letter from SSEF is a distinction reserved only for the rarest and most extraordinary of gemstones, recognising its exceptional size, colour and clarity. This alone would mark it out as a significant stone, but set within a beautifully conceived late Victorian jewel, with approximately 10.50ct of old mine and old European cut diamonds and the added ingenuity of a convertible pendant and bangle design, and provenance, it becomes something truly rare, a jewel of history, beauty and genuine collector significance.
