The Asscher cut diamond was designed by and named after Joseph Asscher, co-founder of the Asscher
Diamond Company in Amsterdam whose family had been dealing in diamonds since the mid 19th Century.
The cut was created in 1902, in an attempt to best utilise the natural shape of rough octahedral diamond crystals.
The cut is often square in shape with deeply truncated corners creating an almost octagonal outline to the stone.
The facets are carefully arranged in three rows of straight, step-like faces to the top and bottom of the stone which has a wonderfully elegant and clean appearance with a more subtle sparkle than brilliant style cuts.
A characteristic high crown and deep pavilion are further hallmarks of this cut and these help to create a wonderful brilliance in the stone.
This was the first diamond cut to ever be officially patented and it became increasingly popular during the early 20th century.
In particular, the straight lines and geometric form of the cut lent itself beautifully to the aesthetic of the Art Deco period.
Just a few years after creating his eponymous diamond cut, Joseph Asscher would become internationally famous as the man who cut the Cullinan diamond, at that time, the largest diamond in the world.
Popular rumour has it that after the first attempt to cleave the diamond in half, Asscher fainted but in fact his family state he simply collapsed with the effort it took to strike a blow hard enough to cleave a diamond that size.
Antique asschers particularly stand out from their modern counterparts with much bigger cut corners that enhance the play of light within the steeper facet pattern.
The facets are carefully arranged in three rows of straight, step-like faces to the top and bottom of the stone which has a wonderfully elegant and clean appearance with a more subtle sparkle than brilliant style cuts.
A characteristic high crown and deep pavilion are further hallmarks of this cut and these help to create a wonderful brilliance in the stone.
This was the first diamond cut to ever be officially patented and it became increasingly popular during the early 20th century.
In particular, the straight lines and geometric form of the cut lent itself beautifully to the aesthetic of the Art Deco period.
Just a few years after creating his eponymous diamond cut, Joseph Asscher would become internationally famous as the man who cut the Cullinan diamond, at that time, the largest diamond in the world.
Popular rumour has it that after the first attempt to cleave the diamond in half, Asscher fainted but in fact his family state he simply collapsed with the effort it took to strike a blow hard enough to cleave a diamond that size.
Antique asschers particularly stand out from their modern counterparts with much bigger cut corners that enhance the play of light within the steeper facet pattern.
The facets are carefully arranged in three rows of straight, step-like faces to the top and bottom of the stone which has a wonderfully elegant and clean appearance with a more subtle sparkle than brilliant style cuts.
A characteristic high crown and deep pavilion are further hallmarks of this cut and these help to create a wonderful brilliance in the stone.
This was the first diamond cut to ever be officially patented and it became increasingly popular during the early 20th century.
In particular, the straight lines and geometric form of the cut lent itself beautifully to the aesthetic of the Art Deco period.
Just a few years after creating his eponymous diamond cut, Joseph Asscher would become internationally famous as the man who cut the Cullinan diamond, at that time, the largest diamond in the world.
Popular rumour has it that after the first attempt to cleave the diamond in half, Asscher fainted but in fact his family state he simply collapsed with the effort it took to strike a blow hard enough to cleave a diamond that size.
Antique asschers particularly stand out from their modern counterparts with much bigger cut corners that enhance the play of light within the steeper facet pattern.
French Cut
The origins of the French cut can be traced back to the 15th Century however it wasn’t until much later, during the 17th Century that it really became fashionable.
Having found favour with European Royalty, the style became particularly popular in France and it is likely that this is where the name originated.
As diamond cutting techniques progressed, stones with a greater number of facets had become increasingly sought after because they displayed more brilliance than earlier, simpler cuts.
The design of the French cut had developed from the addition of extra facets to the old table cut diamonds thereby altering them into much more lively stones.
This style of cut has changed very little to this day and its evolution marks one of the earliest milestones in the development of the brilliant cut diamonds we know today.
As diamond cutting techniques progressed, stones with a greater number of facets had become increasingly sought after because they displayed more brilliance than earlier, simpler cuts.
The design of the French cut had developed from the addition of extra facets to the old table cut diamonds thereby altering them into much more lively stones.
This style of cut has changed very little to this day and its evolution marks one of the earliest milestones in the development of the brilliant cut diamonds we know today.
As diamond cutting techniques progressed, stones with a greater number of facets had become increasingly sought after because they displayed more brilliance than earlier, simpler cuts.
The design of the French cut had developed from the addition of extra facets to the old table cut diamonds thereby altering them into much more lively stones.
This style of cut has changed very little to this day and its evolution marks one of the earliest milestones in the development of the brilliant cut diamonds we know today.
Old Mine Brilliant Cut
Old mine brilliant cut diamonds are sometimes referred to as old miners or OMBs and are either square or rectangular diamonds with obviously rounded corners and sides.
This softened profile is called a cushion shape as the convex edges and curved corners are said to resemble an actual cushion.
The style developed during the 18th century after the discovery of diamonds in Brazil in about 1725.
This facilitated experiments in cutting due to the large increase in available stones.
Eager as ever to retain as much weight as possible, cutters still followed the overall shape of the rough crystals but now corners became more rounded and the number of facets were increased.
The profile proportions of the stones also echoed the rough with the crowns being relatively high and the top table facet generally fairly small.
Another typical feature of these stones is the point at the bottom of the stone, known as the culet, which was polished flat.
The discovery of diamonds in South Africa during the late 1860’s coincided with revolutionised mechanical cutting methods.
This saw the fashion for new circular cut diamonds begin to replace these cushion shaped stones which then became known as ‘old mine’ diamonds.
Today the name ‘old mine brilliant’ still describes a cushion shaped diamond with a small table facet, high crown and polished culet.
These features enable old mine cuts to display a huge amount of fire (the coloured flashes of light you see in a diamond) and life.
The style developed during the 18th century after the discovery of diamonds in Brazil in about 1725.
This facilitated experiments in cutting due to the large increase in available stones.
Eager as ever to retain as much weight as possible, cutters still followed the overall shape of the rough crystals but now corners became more rounded and the number of facets were increased.
The profile proportions of the stones also echoed the rough with the crowns being relatively high and the top table facet generally fairly small.
Another typical feature of these stones is the point at the bottom of the stone, known as the culet, which was polished flat.
The discovery of diamonds in South Africa during the late 1860’s coincided with revolutionised mechanical cutting methods.
This saw the fashion for new circular cut diamonds begin to replace these cushion shaped stones which then became known as ‘old mine’ diamonds.
Today the name ‘old mine brilliant’ still describes a cushion shaped diamond with a small table facet, high crown and polished culet.
These features enable old mine cuts to display a huge amount of fire (the coloured flashes of light you see in a diamond) and life.
The style developed during the 18th century after the discovery of diamonds in Brazil in about 1725.
This facilitated experiments in cutting due to the large increase in available stones.
Eager as ever to retain as much weight as possible, cutters still followed the overall shape of the rough crystals but now corners became more rounded and the number of facets were increased.
The profile proportions of the stones also echoed the rough with the crowns being relatively high and the top table facet generally fairly small.
Another typical feature of these stones is the point at the bottom of the stone, known as the culet, which was polished flat.
The discovery of diamonds in South Africa during the late 1860’s coincided with revolutionised mechanical cutting methods.
This saw the fashion for new circular cut diamonds begin to replace these cushion shaped stones which then became known as ‘old mine’ diamonds.
Today the name ‘old mine brilliant’ still describes a cushion shaped diamond with a small table facet, high crown and polished culet.
These features enable old mine cuts to display a huge amount of fire (the coloured flashes of light you see in a diamond) and life.
Old European Brilliant Cut
The old European brilliant cut is the forefather of today’s modern round brilliant cut diamond.
It was developed towards the end of the 19th Century when new machinery was invented, in particular the motor-driven saw, which allowed diamonds to be cut in attractive, symmetrical round shapes without wasting the excess rough crystal that was cut off.
This revolutionised the industry and gradually, through a process of trial and error, cutters discovered which proportions produced the finest balance of brilliance and fire within these new round stones.
Diamonds were now able to dazzle even in the dimly candle-lit rooms of the turn of the century.
Along with their characteristic polished culet facet, finely cut old European brilliants can be distinguished from their modern counterparts by their higher crowns and smaller table facets.
These features combine to create a greater amount of fire (the coloured flashes of light you see in a diamond) from inside the stone than we typically see in modern cut diamonds.
During the 1900s and 1910s the profile of these old European cut stones slowly starts to flatten out and later stones lose the depth of the older stones.
This revolutionised the industry and gradually, through a process of trial and error, cutters discovered which proportions produced the finest balance of brilliance and fire within these new round stones.
Diamonds were now able to dazzle even in the dimly candle-lit rooms of the turn of the century.
Along with their characteristic polished culet facet, finely cut old European brilliants can be distinguished from their modern counterparts by their higher crowns and smaller table facets.
These features combine to create a greater amount of fire (the coloured flashes of light you see in a diamond) from inside the stone than we typically see in modern cut diamonds.
During the 1900s and 1910s the profile of these old European cut stones slowly starts to flatten out and later stones lose the depth of the older stones.
This revolutionised the industry and gradually, through a process of trial and error, cutters discovered which proportions produced the finest balance of brilliance and fire within these new round stones.
Diamonds were now able to dazzle even in the dimly candle-lit rooms of the turn of the century.
Along with their characteristic polished culet facet, finely cut old European brilliants can be distinguished from their modern counterparts by their higher crowns and smaller table facets.
These features combine to create a greater amount of fire (the coloured flashes of light you see in a diamond) from inside the stone than we typically see in modern cut diamonds.
During the 1900s and 1910s the profile of these old European cut stones slowly starts to flatten out and later stones lose the depth of the older stones.
Emerald Cut
As its name suggests, the emerald cut was originally developed for emerald gemstones.
Emeralds are brittle stones which can easily chip and crack, especially during the cutting and polishing process but also when being set and worn.
Therefore, a style of fashioning was developed with cut-off corners rather than sharp pointed corners which helped to protect the most vulnerable points of the stone.
Variations of this type of cut were used widely on coloured gems from around the 16th century onwards.
The straight facets of an emerald cut are applied in a stepped pattern which means they have a different character to the brilliant cut styles of faceting thereby allowing the colour of the gem to be seen and enjoyed to the fullest without any distraction.
It was several centuries before this cut was used on diamonds but during the first half of the 20th century, emerald cut diamonds began to appear and grow in popularity.
Their sleek geometric appearance suited the aesthetic of the Art Deco period and the elegant feel of the stones which offered a cleaner icier look than their brilliant-cut sisters were loved by women looking for something a little different.
The emerald-cut diamond is however less forgiving than a brilliant cut one in terms of concealing inclusions and hints of colour.
Because the style and shape of the facets does not create as much fire and brilliance to distract the viewer, the quality of these stones can be clearly seen and therefore needs to be as good as possible to ensure the most beautiful gem.
The earlier emerald cuts that we favour using in our jewellery are typically characterised by large wide-open tables which act as a window into the stone, large cut corners and higher tables and often flat open keels.
These stones are supremely elegant and have a quiet understated look that is very appealing.
Variations of this type of cut were used widely on coloured gems from around the 16th century onwards.
The straight facets of an emerald cut are applied in a stepped pattern which means they have a different character to the brilliant cut styles of faceting thereby allowing the colour of the gem to be seen and enjoyed to the fullest without any distraction.
It was several centuries before this cut was used on diamonds but during the first half of the 20th century, emerald cut diamonds began to appear and grow in popularity.
Their sleek geometric appearance suited the aesthetic of the Art Deco period and the elegant feel of the stones which offered a cleaner icier look than their brilliant-cut sisters were loved by women looking for something a little different.
The emerald-cut diamond is however less forgiving than a brilliant cut one in terms of concealing inclusions and hints of colour.
Because the style and shape of the facets does not create as much fire and brilliance to distract the viewer, the quality of these stones can be clearly seen and therefore needs to be as good as possible to ensure the most beautiful gem.
The earlier emerald cuts that we favour using in our jewellery are typically characterised by large wide-open tables which act as a window into the stone, large cut corners and higher tables and often flat open keels.
These stones are supremely elegant and have a quiet understated look that is very appealing.
Variations of this type of cut were used widely on coloured gems from around the 16th century onwards.
The straight facets of an emerald cut are applied in a stepped pattern which means they have a different character to the brilliant cut styles of faceting thereby allowing the colour of the gem to be seen and enjoyed to the fullest without any distraction.
It was several centuries before this cut was used on diamonds but during the first half of the 20th century, emerald cut diamonds began to appear and grow in popularity.
Their sleek geometric appearance suited the aesthetic of the Art Deco period and the elegant feel of the stones which offered a cleaner icier look than their brilliant-cut sisters were loved by women looking for something a little different.
The emerald-cut diamond is however less forgiving than a brilliant cut one in terms of concealing inclusions and hints of colour.
Because the style and shape of the facets does not create as much fire and brilliance to distract the viewer, the quality of these stones can be clearly seen and therefore needs to be as good as possible to ensure the most beautiful gem.
The earlier emerald cuts that we favour using in our jewellery are typically characterised by large wide-open tables which act as a window into the stone, large cut corners and higher tables and often flat open keels.
These stones are supremely elegant and have a quiet understated look that is very appealing.
Jubilee Cut
The Jubilee cut was created at the end of the 19th century and was named in honour of Queen Victoria's Diamond Jubilee which was officially celebrated on 22nd June 1897.
It is a round shaped diamond primarily notable for its lack of flat table facet which is replaced with a rose-cut style faceting with a central apex.
The combination of rose and brilliant style facets is very unusual and the cut has a total of 88 facets.
This cut was produced for only a few short years at the turn of the 20th Century so this is one of the rarest diamonds cuts there is.
It has a beautiful sparkle and life to it which combined with its rarity makes these stones very special indeed.
The combination of rose and brilliant style facets is very unusual and the cut has a total of 88 facets.
This cut was produced for only a few short years at the turn of the 20th Century so this is one of the rarest diamonds cuts there is.
It has a beautiful sparkle and life to it which combined with its rarity makes these stones very special indeed.
The combination of rose and brilliant style facets is very unusual and the cut has a total of 88 facets.
This cut was produced for only a few short years at the turn of the 20th Century so this is one of the rarest diamonds cuts there is.
It has a beautiful sparkle and life to it which combined with its rarity makes these stones very special indeed.
Oval Cut
First referenced in the late 1800s and early 1900s, the oval diamond enjoyed a heyday during the 1950s and 60s, falling out of favour until the turn of the millennium and now once again gaining in popularity.
It evolved out of the old European and round brilliant cuts and appeals to those who prefer a more elongated shape but still want the life and sparkle that brilliant cuts give.
The oval also has the advantage of a larger surface area than a round stone of equal weight meaning they can give the impression of being a higher carat weight than they really are.
The shape is particularly flattering on the hand, drawing the eye along the finger and making it seem longer.
When looking at oval diamonds, symmetry and proportion are of particular importance.
Whether you prefer a shorter wider stone or a longer thinner one is up to you but have a good look at the outline of the shape and make sure it is even and symmetrical.
The most famous oval diamond is probably the Koh-i-Noor which weighs in at an impressive 105cts and is part of the British Crown Jewels.
More recently, this lovely shape has been making its mark in the world of celebrity engagement rings and can be seen sparkling on the fingers of Blake Lively, Kourtney Kardashian and Hailey Bieber.
The oval also has the advantage of a larger surface area than a round stone of equal weight meaning they can give the impression of being a higher carat weight than they really are.
The shape is particularly flattering on the hand, drawing the eye along the finger and making it seem longer.
When looking at oval diamonds, symmetry and proportion are of particular importance.
Whether you prefer a shorter wider stone or a longer thinner one is up to you but have a good look at the outline of the shape and make sure it is even and symmetrical.
The most famous oval diamond is probably the Koh-i-Noor which weighs in at an impressive 105cts and is part of the British Crown Jewels.
More recently, this lovely shape has been making its mark in the world of celebrity engagement rings and can be seen sparkling on the fingers of Blake Lively, Kourtney Kardashian and Hailey Bieber.
The oval also has the advantage of a larger surface area than a round stone of equal weight meaning they can give the impression of being a higher carat weight than they really are.
The shape is particularly flattering on the hand, drawing the eye along the finger and making it seem longer.
When looking at oval diamonds, symmetry and proportion are of particular importance.
Whether you prefer a shorter wider stone or a longer thinner one is up to you but have a good look at the outline of the shape and make sure it is even and symmetrical.
The most famous oval diamond is probably the Koh-i-Noor which weighs in at an impressive 105cts and is part of the British Crown Jewels.
More recently, this lovely shape has been making its mark in the world of celebrity engagement rings and can be seen sparkling on the fingers of Blake Lively, Kourtney Kardashian and Hailey Bieber.
Carré Cut
Carré cut diamonds are typically square in shape and unlike the other cuts described above they have retained their sharply pointed 90 degree corners.
They can also be rectangular and apart from their corners, their most defining characteristic is the internal X shape one sees when viewing the diamond face up.
This is due to the fact that the corners are present meaning the carré cut has only four sides as opposed to the eight sides of an Asscher or emerald cut.
These four sides with their straight step cut facets meet in a perfect point at the bottom of the stone creating a pronounced cross shape rather than the windmill sail pattern associated with other step cut stones that have had their corners removed.
As with other step cut stones, the Carré cut was popular during the Art Deco period but it is rarer to find.
The pointed corners whilst beautiful are susceptible to damage particularly if care has not been taken in the choice of setting, storing and wear of these stones therefore many have been re-cut after accidently losing a point.
This style of cut favours high quality diamonds because it is so clear and easy to see into.
It is a sharp, clean, geometric design that looks striking and contemporary and works as a solitaire as well as shoulder stones or even accent stones calibre cut into a band ring.
This is due to the fact that the corners are present meaning the carré cut has only four sides as opposed to the eight sides of an Asscher or emerald cut.
These four sides with their straight step cut facets meet in a perfect point at the bottom of the stone creating a pronounced cross shape rather than the windmill sail pattern associated with other step cut stones that have had their corners removed.
As with other step cut stones, the Carré cut was popular during the Art Deco period but it is rarer to find.
The pointed corners whilst beautiful are susceptible to damage particularly if care has not been taken in the choice of setting, storing and wear of these stones therefore many have been re-cut after accidently losing a point.
This style of cut favours high quality diamonds because it is so clear and easy to see into.
It is a sharp, clean, geometric design that looks striking and contemporary and works as a solitaire as well as shoulder stones or even accent stones calibre cut into a band ring.
This is due to the fact that the corners are present meaning the carré cut has only four sides as opposed to the eight sides of an Asscher or emerald cut.
These four sides with their straight step cut facets meet in a perfect point at the bottom of the stone creating a pronounced cross shape rather than the windmill sail pattern associated with other step cut stones that have had their corners removed.
As with other step cut stones, the Carré cut was popular during the Art Deco period but it is rarer to find.
The pointed corners whilst beautiful are susceptible to damage particularly if care has not been taken in the choice of setting, storing and wear of these stones therefore many have been re-cut after accidently losing a point.
This style of cut favours high quality diamonds because it is so clear and easy to see into.
It is a sharp, clean, geometric design that looks striking and contemporary and works as a solitaire as well as shoulder stones or even accent stones calibre cut into a band ring.
Rose Cut
Of all the names given to the different diamond cuts, the Rose cut surely has the loveliest.
One of the earliest cuts, its origins can be traced back to the 16th century.
Prior to the development of the rose cut, most diamonds only had a table facet added to them and so the actual cutting and polishing of rough crystals was minimal.
With the discovery of diamond deposits in Brazil and the development of cutting techniques in Europe, diamonds became more available than they had been and cutters began to experiment with faceting.
Additionally, they were looking at ways to alter the natural outline of the rough and try to make stones rounder and more uniform in shape.
Writing in 1568, Benvenuto Cellini describes the process we now know as ‘bruting’ – making a diamond rounded in outline by turning it against another diamond.
This was the first time that diamonds had been made round and not simply followed the shape of the original rough.
Whilst the earliest roses were often irregular in outline, they became more rounded over time and are characterised by their flat backs and fully faceted domed tops covered in triangular facets.
These are the first fully cut and faceted diamonds (as opposed to simply polished) and were first introduced in Antwerp.
The rose cut made good use of flat pieces of rough allowing these to be utilised alongside better formed crystals.
Originally there would have been as few as three or maybe six facets added to the crown but as time went on these increased to as many as twenty-four.
The term ‘double rose’ is used to refer to a rose cut that is domed top and bottom with both sides fully faceted with small triangular facets.
Part of the appeal of a rose cut diamond, then as now, is the fact that the shallow nature of the stones means they look bigger than diamonds of the same carat weight so can give a showier ‘look’ for similar cost.
Rose cut diamonds remained popular through to the late nineteenth century when they rather fell out of fashion in favour of brilliant style cut stones.
With the discovery of diamond deposits in Brazil and the development of cutting techniques in Europe, diamonds became more available than they had been and cutters began to experiment with faceting.
Additionally, they were looking at ways to alter the natural outline of the rough and try to make stones rounder and more uniform in shape.
Writing in 1568, Benvenuto Cellini describes the process we now know as ‘bruting’ – making a diamond rounded in outline by turning it against another diamond.
This was the first time that diamonds had been made round and not simply followed the shape of the original rough.
Whilst the earliest roses were often irregular in outline, they became more rounded over time and are characterised by their flat backs and fully faceted domed tops covered in triangular facets.
These are the first fully cut and faceted diamonds (as opposed to simply polished) and were first introduced in Antwerp.
The rose cut made good use of flat pieces of rough allowing these to be utilised alongside better formed crystals.
Originally there would have been as few as three or maybe six facets added to the crown but as time went on these increased to as many as twenty-four.
The term ‘double rose’ is used to refer to a rose cut that is domed top and bottom with both sides fully faceted with small triangular facets.
Part of the appeal of a rose cut diamond, then as now, is the fact that the shallow nature of the stones means they look bigger than diamonds of the same carat weight so can give a showier ‘look’ for similar cost.
Rose cut diamonds remained popular through to the late nineteenth century when they rather fell out of fashion in favour of brilliant style cut stones.
With the discovery of diamond deposits in Brazil and the development of cutting techniques in Europe, diamonds became more available than they had been and cutters began to experiment with faceting.
Additionally, they were looking at ways to alter the natural outline of the rough and try to make stones rounder and more uniform in shape.
Writing in 1568, Benvenuto Cellini describes the process we now know as ‘bruting’ – making a diamond rounded in outline by turning it against another diamond.
This was the first time that diamonds had been made round and not simply followed the shape of the original rough.
Whilst the earliest roses were often irregular in outline, they became more rounded over time and are characterised by their flat backs and fully faceted domed tops covered in triangular facets.
These are the first fully cut and faceted diamonds (as opposed to simply polished) and were first introduced in Antwerp.
The rose cut made good use of flat pieces of rough allowing these to be utilised alongside better formed crystals.
Originally there would have been as few as three or maybe six facets added to the crown but as time went on these increased to as many as twenty-four.
The term ‘double rose’ is used to refer to a rose cut that is domed top and bottom with both sides fully faceted with small triangular facets.
Part of the appeal of a rose cut diamond, then as now, is the fact that the shallow nature of the stones means they look bigger than diamonds of the same carat weight so can give a showier ‘look’ for similar cost.
Rose cut diamonds remained popular through to the late nineteenth century when they rather fell out of fashion in favour of brilliant style cut stones.
Navette/Marquise/Moval Cut
Popular during the early 20th century, it is now beginning to regain the attention and appreciation we believe it deserves.
It is unusual for a diamond cut in that it is one of very few shapes that is not symmetrical but instead combines both the generous curved form of a round brilliant with the elongated tapering point of a marquise shape.
According to legend, the marquise shape diamond was created for King Louis XV of France who wanted a diamond cut designed specifically to remind him of his mistresses’ lips.
The Marquise de Pompadour, more commonly known as Madame de Pompadour, had the most beautifully shaped mouth he’d ever seen and he wanted it immortalised in diamond.
The elegant marquise cut was born and the elongated curved shape with pointed ends would become an enduring symbol of love and romance.
Today the antique Marquise diamonds are also referred to as a navette and whilst it may not be as popular as it once was, it is beginning to find new admirers in a younger generation.
According to legend, the marquise shape diamond was created for King Louis XV of France who wanted a diamond cut designed specifically to remind him of his mistresses’ lips.
The Marquise de Pompadour, more commonly known as Madame de Pompadour, had the most beautifully shaped mouth he’d ever seen and he wanted it immortalised in diamond.
The elegant marquise cut was born and the elongated curved shape with pointed ends would become an enduring symbol of love and romance.
Today the antique Marquise diamonds are also referred to as a navette and whilst it may not be as popular as it once was, it is beginning to find new admirers in a younger generation.
According to legend, the marquise shape diamond was created for King Louis XV of France who wanted a diamond cut designed specifically to remind him of his mistresses’ lips.
The Marquise de Pompadour, more commonly known as Madame de Pompadour, had the most beautifully shaped mouth he’d ever seen and he wanted it immortalised in diamond.
The elegant marquise cut was born and the elongated curved shape with pointed ends would become an enduring symbol of love and romance.
Today the antique Marquise diamonds are also referred to as a navette and whilst it may not be as popular as it once was, it is beginning to find new admirers in a younger generation.
Antique Pear Shapes
The pear shaped diamond has long been loved for its elegant and flattering tear drop shape.
It is unusual for a diamond cut in that it is one of very few shapes that is not symmetrical but instead combines both the generous curved form of a round brilliant with the elongated tapering point of a marquise shape.
The origins of this diamond cut can be traced back to 15th century Belgium and a man named Lodewyk van Bercken who was renowned throughout Europe for inventing a piece of diamond cutting machinery called a scaif.
This rotating wheel impregnated with oil and diamond powder facilitated a quality of diamond cutting and polishing previously unknown.
As van Bercken’s reputation as a diamond cutter spread, he was able to experiment more freely and this resulted in the development of the pear shape amongst others.
Early pear shapes, like their rounded sisters, were gentler in form than today’s modern cuts.
Proportions can vary hugely with this shape from wide soft pears to long narrow ones but the antique cuts we favour are of the softer variety.
Typically on the fuller side with a softly curved end and a gently rounded tip they often have a flat open culet and faceting style that resembles old mine cut diamonds.
The smaller table facet and higher crown allow these old cuts to display a wonderful fire and liveliness which, coupled with their beautiful shape, makes them particularly alluring.
The most famous pear shape diamond is the historic Cullinan I, which is also the world’s largest colourless cut diamond weighing in at 530.2cts.
It is set in the top of the Sovereign’s Sceptre which is part of the British Crown Jewels and is used during coronation services.
The origins of this diamond cut can be traced back to 15th century Belgium and a man named Lodewyk van Bercken who was renowned throughout Europe for inventing a piece of diamond cutting machinery called a scaif.
This rotating wheel impregnated with oil and diamond powder facilitated a quality of diamond cutting and polishing previously unknown.
As van Bercken’s reputation as a diamond cutter spread, he was able to experiment more freely and this resulted in the development of the pear shape amongst others.
Early pear shapes, like their rounded sisters, were gentler in form than today’s modern cuts.
Proportions can vary hugely with this shape from wide soft pears to long narrow ones but the antique cuts we favour are of the softer variety.
Typically on the fuller side with a softly curved end and a gently rounded tip they often have a flat open culet and faceting style that resembles old mine cut diamonds.
The smaller table facet and higher crown allow these old cuts to display a wonderful fire and liveliness which, coupled with their beautiful shape, makes them particularly alluring.
The most famous pear shape diamond is the historic Cullinan I, which is also the world’s largest colourless cut diamond weighing in at 530.2cts.
It is set in the top of the Sovereign’s Sceptre which is part of the British Crown Jewels and is used during coronation services.
The origins of this diamond cut can be traced back to 15th century Belgium and a man named Lodewyk van Bercken who was renowned throughout Europe for inventing a piece of diamond cutting machinery called a scaif.
This rotating wheel impregnated with oil and diamond powder facilitated a quality of diamond cutting and polishing previously unknown.
As van Bercken’s reputation as a diamond cutter spread, he was able to experiment more freely and this resulted in the development of the pear shape amongst others.
Early pear shapes, like their rounded sisters, were gentler in form than today’s modern cuts.
Proportions can vary hugely with this shape from wide soft pears to long narrow ones but the antique cuts we favour are of the softer variety.
Typically on the fuller side with a softly curved end and a gently rounded tip they often have a flat open culet and faceting style that resembles old mine cut diamonds.
The smaller table facet and higher crown allow these old cuts to display a wonderful fire and liveliness which, coupled with their beautiful shape, makes them particularly alluring.
The most famous pear shape diamond is the historic Cullinan I, which is also the world’s largest colourless cut diamond weighing in at 530.2cts.
It is set in the top of the Sovereign’s Sceptre which is part of the British Crown Jewels and is used during coronation services.
