Jewel of The Month - August 2025

A remarkable gemset cuff which blends craftsmanship, rarity and provenance has been chosen as Hancocks London Jewel of the Month for August.

The piece in question – a retro gemset ‘Rouleau’ cuff bracelet in 18ct yellow gold by John Rubel, circa 1945 – is a jewel that blends bold design, exquisite craftsmanship and remarkable provenance.

At its centre runs a cylindrical bar set with four rows of cushion-cut cognac coloured citrines, approximately 24 carats in total, each stone individually claw set in gold and interspersed with small old cut diamonds. Flanking this vibrant barrel are decorative gold fan motifs embellished with star set diamonds, while the bombé terminals are adorned with turquoise cabochons and rubies. Ingeniously, one side of the cuff is hinged to swivel open, allowing the bracelet to be taken on and off with ease.

Amy Burton, Creative Director, Hancocks London, says: “This is an incredible cuff: sculptural, colourful and totally glamorous. It encapsulates the post-war aesthetic where bold colour pairings were embraced with refined French craftsmanship, and where designs reflected confidence and strength.”

This striking bracelet was created during the brief period when John Rubel operated independently of Van Cleef & Arpels, producing jewellery under his own name between 1943 and 1952. Rubel, whose workshop was responsible for many of VCA’s most iconic creations including the original ballerina brooches, was a master of French haute joaillerie. His cuffs in particular became celebrated for their originality and daring use of colour, including the Indian-inspired diamond and emerald bead ‘Manchette’ cuffs created for socialite Daisy Fellows in the 1920s, pieces that became synonymous with her legendary elegance and style.

The bracelet is accompanied by a certificate of authenticity confirming it was created by the French jeweller John Rubel circa 1945, crafted in 18ct yellow gold and set with citrines, diamonds, rubies and turquoise.

ABOUT JOHN RUBEL

Rubel was an unsung hero of French haute joaillerie during the early 20th century, a long-standing atelier behind many of Van Cleef & Arpels’ most iconic creations, including the original ballerina brooches. Among the jewels for which he became renowned were his bold gemset cuffs, celebrated for their imaginative design and masterful craftsmanship.

One of the most notable examples was the Indian-inspired diamond and emerald bead ‘Manchette’ cuff created in 1926 for the glamorous socialite Daisy Fellows. A second, matching cuff followed two years later, designed so the pair could be joined together to form a necklace. These jewels became synonymous with Fellows herself, reflecting not only her love of travel and exoticism but also her legendary elegance and fine style.