Jewel of The Month - April 2025

In anticipation of the opening of the V&A's Cartier exhibition later this month, Hancocks London has chosen a quintessential piece of the Maison’s illustrious heritage as its Jewel of the Month for April.

The diamond and 18ct yellow gold Cartier daffodil brooch, dated circa 1946, epitomises the Maison’s mastery of transformable design. A jewel of exceptional artistry and ingenuity, featuring individually rotating petals that offer two distinct expressions - one showcasing a scintillating display of pavé-set diamonds framed by an 18ct yellow gold rope-twist border, the other revealing an elegantly engraved all-gold finish which bears similarities to that of Cartier's iconic 'Grain de Café' motif. The daffodil's trumpet is elegantly adorned with six round brilliant cut diamonds, supported by a delicate gold wire stem and stylised leaves, one of which is also pavé set with diamonds.

The reversible petal mechanism, a concept documented in The Art of Cartier alongside an original pencil and gouache sketch from circa 1946, showcases the Maison's commitment to both aesthetic versatility and technical ingenuity.

The gold engraving on the petal's reverse has similarities to the iconic 'Grain de Café' collection, first introduced in 1938 under the creative direction of Jeanne Toussaint. A visionary in jewellery design, Toussaint transformed the humble coffee bean into a motif of understated luxury, winning the admiration of style icons such as Grace Kelly.

Amy Burton, Creative Director, Hancocks London, says: "This brooch effortlessly marries exquisite craftsmanship with practical wearability, truly exemplifying the exceptional artistry and ingenuity that have made Cartier a global icon."

During the mid-20th century, Cartier's floral brooches captivated connoisseurs and collectors alike. A favourite of royalty, Queen Elizabeth II was gifted a Cartier floral brooch for her wedding in 1947, and her legendary Williamson Pink Diamond brooch, created in 1953, remains one of the most celebrated jewels from her collection.

Likewise, Princess Margaret wore a striking Cartier diamond rose brooch at the coronation that same year. This very brooch, now featured on the posters for the V&A’s upcoming Cartier exhibition, was once owned by Hancocks London.