Victorian
Antique En Tremblant Diamond Butterfly Brooch
An antique Victorian butterfly brooch, circa 1890. The brooch is designed as an open-winged butterfly, pavé set with old mine, old European and rose cut diamonds, the eyes accentuated with emerald cabochons, to an openwork mount in silver-topped gold, mounted en tremblant and to a single pin brooch fitting.
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Director’s Notes
The term en tremblant is a French term, “to tremble” and refers to a jewellery technique in which part of a jewel is mounted on a small spring or ‘trembler’ which allows it to move subtly with the movement of the wearer. The technique is especially associated with antique 18th and 19th century jewellery, particularly floral brooches or diamond set butterflies, where the wings were given this additional dimension of life and movement. When these jewels were worn in candlelight, the trembling motion would increase the natural liveliness of the old cut diamonds, making the jewel appear to truly shimmer. At its finest, en tremblant demonstrates the ingenuity and intricacy of craftsmanship from these eras, bringing a jewel to life through movement, light and technical skill.