Hancocks
4.83ct Padparadscha Sapphire & 1.11ct Colombian Emerald Drop Earrings
A pair of padparadscha sapphire and Colombian emerald earrings by Hancocks. Each handcrafted earring is set with an oval cut orange-pink padparadscha sapphire, laterally articulated and suspended from an octagonal cut Colombian emerald, all bezel set in 18ct yellow gold, to 18ct yellow gold post and scroll fittings.
£55,000.00
Information
Maker
Hancocks
Origin
London
Period
Contemporary
Gemstone
2.44ct mixed oval cut, unheated Madagascan padparaschda sapphire - with AGL certificate
2.39ct mixed oval cut, unheated Madagascan padparaschda sapphire - with AGL certificate
0.53ct octagonal cut Colombian emerald, with no to insignificant clarity enhancement - with GCS certificate
0.58ct octagonal cut Colombian emerald, with minor clarity enhancement - with GCS certificate
Setting
18ct yellow gold
Dimensions
Length: 1.6cm/0.6"
Width at widest point: 0.8cm/0.3"
Weight Description
5.1 grams
REF
130890
Discover this Jewel
Sapphires
Ceylon Sapphires
The small tear drop shaped island of Ceylon (now known as Sri Lanka) lies off the tip off India in the Indian Ocean. Renowned for centuries as a source of beautiful gems, for a relatively small island, the wealth and variety of gemstones found here is nothing short of extraordinary.
Today it remains one of the most important gem localities in the world but it is probably best known for its range of sapphires which occur here in a rainbow of colours including the highly prized and rare Padparadscha sapphire. Ceylon blue sapphires are prized for their bright, mid to deep blue colour. The lighter stones are sometimes referred to as 'cornflower blue' with some having a little touch of violet to their hue whilst the deeper colours can look very similar to Burmese stones. Most Ceylon sapphires are found in alluvial deposits which are predominantly mined by primitive methods. The variation in colour as well as the tones and hues within those colours is unique to Ceylon.
Burma Sapphire
Whilst rubies from Burma are justifiably revered around the world, their sibling sapphires were, for many years, somewhat overlooked. The Victorian London jeweller Edwin Streeter described them as being overly dark and, despite this not being the case, his opinion was repeated by others and seemed to stick.
It took decades to reverse this but today Burmese sapphires are recognised for the wonderful gems they are, indeed many view them as surpassed only by sapphires from Kashmir. Burmese sapphires are found predominantly in alluvial deposits in the Mogok area in close proximity to rubies. Whilst rubies account for the majority of the gem output, sapphires forming only 10-20%, it is the sapphires that occur in larger sizes with rough weighing 40/50/60/cts not uncommon. Burma is also now known for producing excellent star sapphires, these rare gems appear to have a bright six rayed star floating just under the surface and are very beautiful. The best Burmese sapphires possess a rich, desirable intense blue with excellent saturation however they also occur in lighter shades as well as in purple, yellow and green.
Kashmir Sapphire
Kashmir sapphires have a truly exceptional colour, a rich, deep velvety blue that often seems to be lit from within. Importantly they also maintain this colour whatever lighting conditions they are viewed in, a fact which separates them from most other sapphires.
Their intense beauty, coupled with their rarity and the fact that only a handful of new stones appear on the market each year, means these wonderful gems are hugely desirable and command some of the highest prices for coloured gemstones in the world. They were discovered in 1881 after a landslide in the Himalayan Mountains of Kashmir revealed the beautiful crystals embedded in the soft, clay-rich earth. They were mined extensively over the next few years, under the control of the Maharaja, during which time many fine and large sapphires were discovered. However, by the end of 1888 operations had ceased and since then, despite various attempts, very little of importance has been recovered.
Padparadscha Sapphire
Padparadscha sapphires are a particularly special variety of sapphire, being the rarest of colours that sapphires are naturally found in. True padparadschas are a unique blend of pink and orange, exhibiting elements of both these colours in the same stone.
Historically found only in Ceylon, the name 'padparadscha' (pronounced pad-per-add-sha) is derived from the ancient Sanskrit word 'padmaraga' referring to the colour of a lotus flower. However, most lotus blossoms are actually more pink than orange so today it is often thought of as a mix of lotus pink and sunset orange. Due to their rarity these stones are amongst the most expensive in the world. As with all gemstones, those that are certified untreated will attract a premium and, like blue sapphires, many padparadschas are heated to improve their colour. Today orangey-pink sapphires are found in Vietnam, Tanzania and Madagascar. The spotlight was turned on these beautiful gems when Princess Eugenie became engaged with one in 2018. As with all sapphires, padparadschas are hard and durable which makes them ideal for setting in rings, particularly ones which will be worn every day such as an engagement ring.
Teal Sapphire
The first emeralds were found in Zambia as far back as the 1920s but they were not mined in any significant quantities until the 1970s. Today, Zambia is considered second only to Colombia as an important source of emeralds in terms of value.
Whilst we're all familiar with the blue variety of sapphires, some might not know that this family of gems comes in a rainbow of different colours including pink, purple, yellow and of course green. Green sapphires will range in hue from a yellowy-green through to a lovely deep slightly blueish green, a colour known as 'teal'. Named after the band of colour around the eye of the Eurasian Teal (a type of duck) it is a rich slightly mysterious colour that shifts its hue depending on the light, sometimes more green and other times more blue. For those who love the colour green and are thinking of a green stone for an engagement ring, a green sapphire can offer a more durable alternative to an emerald for those with a busy, active lifestyle. A fine quality green sapphire is typically more affordable than the same quality emerald would be too, size for size.
Emeralds
Colombian Emerald
Historically, the very finest quality emeralds have been found in Colombia, in particular three key mining areas - Muzo, Coscuez and Chivor - which between them have been supplying the world with exceptional gems for many hundreds of years.
Stones from these locations are widely regarded to be the most beautiful and intense in colour with a purity of green unmatched by those from any other source. Whilst the earliest record of emerald mining was in Ancient Egypt, indeed Cleopatra loved these gems so much she is reputed to have had her own mine, the beauty of the stones from Colombia could not be rivalled. Since the 16th Century these stones have been widely traded throughout Europe and their superiority in terms of colour and size meant they quickly became the most highly prized emeralds in the world. Mining in these areas continues today and they are still producing exceptional quality gems which are as desirable today as they were to the early Colombians who first discovered them.
No Oil
Emeralds that have been certified as having no traces of oil in them are particularly rare. Almost all emeralds are treated with oil, usually at source, to enhance their clarity. This is such common practice that finding an emerald without any trace, however minor, is something special and truly noteworthy.
Zambian Emeralds
The first emeralds were found in Zambia as far back as the 1920s but they were not mined in any significant quantities until the 1970s. Today, Zambia is considered second only to Colombia as an important source of emeralds in terms of value.
The primary mining area is Kafubu and the most significant concessions are Kagem, Grizzly and
Chantete, all of which are open-pit mines. Currently Kagem alone is producing in the region of
20-25% of the worlds emerald supply. The output is varied in terms of both colour and clarity
but the top end of the range is acknowledged as very fine indeed. These emeralds get their
intensely saturated green colour from a combination of chromium, iron and beryllium. This iron
content is also significant in terms of durability as it helps to create a stronger internal
structure meaning that emeralds from this area measure slightly higher on the gemstone hardness
scale than those from other localities.
In 2018, the Kagem mine uncovered a significant 5,655-carat emerald. Named Inkalamu (meaning
lion) this gem was notable not only for its size but also for its exceptional clarity and evenly
saturated colour. Two years later in 2020, the same mine produced an even larger 6,225-carat
emerald which was subsequently named Insofu (meaning elephant). These extraordinary finds, like
all the emeralds in this area were formed more than 450 million years ago thanks to surging
magma from the earth’s mantle encountering a specific set of minerals in just the right
environment to allow for emerald crystal growth
Ural Mountain Emeralds
Emeralds were first discovered in the Ural Mountains in the early part of the 19th Century in an area about 100km northeast of Ekaterinburg. The story goes that in 1830 a local man noticed some green crystals around the roots of a fallen tree near the Takovaya river.
It didn’t take long to establish what they were and organised mining began within just a few
months. However, the world didn’t see any of the emeralds that were excavated over the coming
decades as they were regarded as property of the Russian crown. It wasn’t until the very end of
the century that this changed, when the Tsar took the decision to lease the mines to the New
Emerald Company (due to the ever-increasing costs of running them) and over the next 18 years
the company exported over 40 million carats of rough emerald. Quality varied with some crystals
suitable only for carving whilst others were perfect for faceting into beautiful gems with good
strong colour and high transparency and clarity.
In 1918 the Soviet government took ownership and control of the mines and production continued
apace with millions of carats mined each year, sometimes even exceeding the output of the
world-famous Colombian mines. During the 1940s and 50s the focus of mining in this area turned
towards beryllium ore, however emeralds were still recovered as a by product of this search and
production.
The focus shifted back again in the 1970s as demand for emeralds increased and new localities
for the ore were discovered elsewhere. Mining continues today and a walk around any major gem
fair will reveal a selection of Ural Mountain emeralds available for sale. However, these stones
are unquestionably rarer than those from larger more commercial localities such as Zambia and
Colombia.
Variations of this type of cut were used widely on coloured gems from around the 16th century onwards. The straight facets of an emerald cut are applied in a stepped pattern which means they have a different character to the brilliant cut styles of faceting thereby allowing the colour of the gem to be seen and enjoyed to the fullest without any distraction.
It was several centuries before this cut was used on diamonds but during the first half of the 20th century, emerald cut diamonds began to appear and grow in popularity. Their sleek geometric appearance suited the aesthetic of the Art Deco period and the elegant feel of the stones which offered a cleaner icier look than their brilliant-cut sisters were loved by women looking for something a little different. The emerald-cut diamond is however less forgiving than a brilliant cut one in terms of concealing inclusions and hints of colour. Because the style and shape of the facets does not create as much fire and brilliance to distract the viewer, the quality of these stones can be clearly seen and therefore needs to be as good as possible to ensure the most beautiful gem.
The earlier emerald cuts that we favour using in our jewellery are typically characterised by large wide-open tables which act as a window into the stone, large cut corners and higher tables and often flat open keels. These stones are supremely elegant and have a quiet understated look that is very appealing.
The oval also has the advantage of a larger surface area than a round stone of equal weight meaning they can give the impression of being a higher carat weight than they really are. The shape is particularly flattering on the hand, drawing the eye along the finger and making it seem longer.
When looking at oval diamonds, symmetry and proportion are of particular importance. Whether you prefer a shorter wider stone or a longer thinner one is up to you but have a good look at the outline of the shape and make sure it is even and symmetrical. The most famous oval diamond is probably the Koh-i-Noor which weighs in at an impressive 105cts and is part of the British Crown Jewels. More recently, this lovely shape has been making its mark in the world of celebrity engagement rings and can be seen sparkling on the fingers of Blake Lively, Kourtney Kardashian and Hailey Bieber.
Director’s Notes
Padparadscha sapphires are a particularly rare and special variety of sapphire, representing the rarest colour in which sapphires are naturally found. True padparadschas display a unique blend of pink and orange, with both hues present within the same stone. Historically sourced exclusively from Ceylon, the name padparadscha (pronounced pad-per-add-sha) is derived from the ancient Sanskrit word padmaraga, referencing the colour of a lotus flower. While most lotus blossoms are in fact more pink than orange, the term is now commonly understood to describe a harmonious balance of lotus pink and sunset orange. Due to their exceptional rarity, padparadscha sapphires are among the most valuable sapphires in the world. As with all gemstones, those certified as untreated command a significant premium, as many stones are routinely heated to enhance colour. Untreated examples, such as these, are therefore particularly scarce and highly desirable. Although once found only in Sri Lanka, padparadscha sapphires are now also sourced from Vietnam, Tanzania and Madagascar. These captivating gemstones entered the public spotlight when Princess Eugenie chose a padparadscha sapphire for her engagement ring in 2018. Like all sapphires, padparadschas are both hard and durable, making them ideally suited to rings intended for everyday wear, including engagement rings.
