Hancocks
1.16ct Burmese Ruby and Old Mine Brilliant Cut Diamond Three Stone Ring
A beautiful Burma ruby and old-cut diamond three stone ring by Hancocks, the classic antique-style carved half hoop ring set across the front with a wonderful richly saturated cushion shape Burmese ruby weighing 1.16ct between a pair of old mine brilliant cut diamonds, one weighing 0.94cts and of H colour and VS1 clarity, the other weighing 0.91cts and of I colour and of VVS2 clarity, interspersed with small old cut diamond points and claw set into an antique-style 18ct yellow gold mount with ornate scroll engraving to the gallery and shoulders, with a D-shape band.
£29,500.00
Information
Maker
Hancocks
Origin
London
Period
Contemporary
Gemstone
1.16ct Burmese unheated ruby cushion brilliant cut with SSEF certificate
0.94ct H VS1 old mine brilliant cut diamond with GIA certificate
0.91ct I VVS2 old mine brilliant cut diamond with GIA certificate
Setting
18ct yellow gold with maker's mark and London assay marks
Dimensions
UK finger size L 1/2, US size 6 (can be adjusted to any size)
Head 8mm x 18mm inclusive of shoulders
Weight Description
6.5 grams
REF
126895
Discover this Jewel
Rubies
Burma Ruby
Rubies mined in Burma have long been held as the absolute ideal in terms of colour for a ruby, they are an exceptionally beautiful rich deep red with neither too much brown nor pink in it.
The term ‘pigeon’s blood’ has historically been used in an attempt to define this colour that is found in the best examples produced by this region. The Mogok Valley in Upper Burma (now known as Myanmar) has been the world’s primary ruby source for centuries and the origins of the mines are swathed in mystery and legend. What is certain is that references to these gems have been found dating back to the Shan Dynasty in the 6th Century. The mines were taken over by the King of Burma in 1597 and all rubies over a certain size had to be given to him on discovery rather than sold. Today there are many different mines in the area both privately owned and government run. New deposits were found in the Mong Hsu area of the country in the 1990’s and more recently a new source has been discovered in the northern region of Namya.
The design of the French cut had developed from the addition of extra facets to old table cut diamonds thereby altering them into much more lively stones. This style of cut has changed very little to this day and its evolution marks one of the earliest milestones in the development of the brilliant cut diamonds we know today.
Pigeon’s Blood Rubies
Historically, the term ‘pigeon’s blood’ has been used to describe the most beautiful and coveted colour for rubies, allegedly due to its similarity in colour to the blood of a pigeon.
Opinions differ as to the exact origin of the term with some saying it came from the Burmese, others that it was first used by the Chinese who had previously owned the area where the Burmese ruby mines were discovered and yet others sighting it as having Hindustani origins where lapidaries compared the colour to the blood red of a pigeon’s eye. Whatever the truth, one thing everyone agreed on is that only rubies of the finest vivid red colour with deep saturation and which showed a soft red fluorescence in daylight were referred to this way. Today rubies from both Burma and Mozambique can show this coveted colour and be certified as such.
Mozambique Rubies
The first significant ruby deposit in Mozambique was discovered in 2009 in an area called Montepuez. Remarkably, in less than fifteen years this country has become the world’s most productive source of gem-quality rubies.
Importantly, the output is not only significant in quantity but also in quality. The rubiesoccur in a wide range of qualities and characteristics but the best of them are low in iron and high inchromium like those from Burma and exhibit a similar vibrant colour with a strong fluorescence. The bestof the best of these will be given with the coveted ‘pigeon’s blood’ colour grade. A percentage of thesecombine this highly desirable colour with a level of clarity that means the stones require no treatment toimprove them. This means that excellent quality, untreated stones are available and these are the oneswe select for our jewellery.
The style developed during the 18th century after the discovery of diamonds in Brazil in about 1725. This facilitated experiments in cutting due to the large increase in available stones. Eager as ever to retain as much weight as possible, cutters still followed the overall shape of the rough crystals but now corners became more rounded and the number of facets were increased. The profile proportions of the stones also echoed the rough with the crowns being relatively high and the top table facet generally fairly small. Another typical feature of these stones is the point at the bottom of the stone, known as the culet, which was polished flat.
The discovery of diamonds in South Africa during the late 1860’s coincided with revolutionised mechanical cutting methods. This saw the fashion for new circular cut diamonds begin to replace these cushion shaped stones which then became known as ‘old mine’ diamonds. Today the name ‘old mine brilliant’ still describes a cushion shaped diamond with a small table facet, high crown and polished culet. These features enable old mine cuts to display a huge amount of fire (the coloured flashes of light you see in a diamond) and life.
