Hancocks
1.10ct Burma Ruby and French Cut Diamond Ring
An incredible antique baguette cut Burmese Ruby with no treatment set in an 18ct yellow gold ring with stunning top white French cut diamonds in a channel setting.
£28,500.00
Information
Maker
Hancocks
Origin
London
Period
Contemporary
Gemstone
1.10ct Rectangular step cut Unheated Burmese Ruby witth SSEF Certificate.
12x G+ VS+ grade rectangular French cut diamonds with a combined weight of 1.20cts.
Setting
18ct yellow gold with maker's mark and London assay marks
Dimensions
UK finger size L, US size 5.75 (can be adjusted to fit any size).
Width at head (widest point): 9mm
Width of band (thinnest point): 3mm
Weight Description
4 grams
REF
126237
Discover this Jewel
Rubies
Burma Ruby
Rubies mined in Burma have long been held as the absolute ideal in terms of colour for a ruby, they are an exceptionally beautiful rich deep red with neither too much brown nor pink in it.
The term ‘pigeon’s blood’ has historically been used in an attempt to define this colour that is found in the best examples produced by this region. The Mogok Valley in Upper Burma (now known as Myanmar) has been the world’s primary ruby source for centuries and the origins of the mines are swathed in mystery and legend. What is certain is that references to these gems have been found dating back to the Shan Dynasty in the 6th Century. The mines were taken over by the King of Burma in 1597 and all rubies over a certain size had to be given to him on discovery rather than sold. Today there are many different mines in the area both privately owned and government run. New deposits were found in the Mong Hsu area of the country in the 1990’s and more recently a new source has been discovered in the northern region of Namya.
The design of the French cut had developed from the addition of extra facets to old table cut diamonds thereby altering them into much more lively stones. This style of cut has changed very little to this day and its evolution marks one of the earliest milestones in the development of the brilliant cut diamonds we know today.
Pigeon’s Blood Rubies
Historically, the term ‘pigeon’s blood’ has been used to describe the most beautiful and coveted colour for rubies, allegedly due to its similarity in colour to the blood of a pigeon.
Opinions differ as to the exact origin of the term with some saying it came from the Burmese, others that it was first used by the Chinese who had previously owned the area where the Burmese ruby mines were discovered and yet others sighting it as having Hindustani origins where lapidaries compared the colour to the blood red of a pigeon’s eye. Whatever the truth, one thing everyone agreed on is that only rubies of the finest vivid red colour with deep saturation and which showed a soft red fluorescence in daylight were referred to this way. Today rubies from both Burma and Mozambique can show this coveted colour and be certified as such.
Mozambique Rubies
The first significant ruby deposit in Mozambique was discovered in 2009 in an area called Montepuez. Remarkably, in less than fifteen years this country has become the world’s most productive source of gem-quality rubies.
Importantly, the output is not only significant in quantity but also in quality. The rubiesoccur in a wide range of qualities and characteristics but the best of them are low in iron and high inchromium like those from Burma and exhibit a similar vibrant colour with a strong fluorescence. The bestof the best of these will be given with the coveted ‘pigeon’s blood’ colour grade. A percentage of thesecombine this highly desirable colour with a level of clarity that means the stones require no treatment toimprove them. This means that excellent quality, untreated stones are available and these are the oneswe select for our jewellery.
As diamond cutting techniques progressed, stones with a greater number of facets had become increasingly sought after because they displayed more brilliance than earlier, simpler cuts. The design of the French cut had developed from the addition of extra facets to the old table cut diamonds thereby altering them into much more lively stones. This style of cut has changed very little to this day and its evolution marks one of the earliest milestones in the development of the brilliant cut diamonds we know today.
Variations of this type of cut were used widely on coloured gems from around the 16th century onwards. The straight facets of an emerald cut are applied in a stepped pattern which means they have a different character to the brilliant cut styles of faceting thereby allowing the colour of the gem to be seen and enjoyed to the fullest without any distraction.
It was several centuries before this cut was used on diamonds but during the first half of the 20th century, emerald cut diamonds began to appear and grow in popularity. Their sleek geometric appearance suited the aesthetic of the Art Deco period and the elegant feel of the stones which offered a cleaner icier look than their brilliant-cut sisters were loved by women looking for something a little different. The emerald-cut diamond is however less forgiving than a brilliant cut one in terms of concealing inclusions and hints of colour. Because the style and shape of the facets does not create as much fire and brilliance to distract the viewer, the quality of these stones can be clearly seen and therefore needs to be as good as possible to ensure the most beautiful gem.
The earlier emerald cuts that we favour using in our jewellery are typically characterised by large wide-open tables which act as a window into the stone, large cut corners and higher tables and often flat open keels. These stones are supremely elegant and have a quiet understated look that is very appealing.
