Van Cleef & Arpels
Vintage 18ct Yellow Gold & Diamond 'Serge Fabric' Suite
A vintage 18ct yellow gold and diamond suite, by Van Cleef & Arpels, circa 1960. The suite is comprised of a bracelet, necklace and earrings, all designed in the maison's 'serge fabric' style, displaying a herringbone pattern composed of yellow gold oblong links, interspersed with round brilliant cut diamonds claw set in platinum. Both the necklace and the bracelet are highly articulated, highlighting the flexibility of the 'fabric'.
POA
Information
Maker
Van Cleef & Arpels
Origin
Paris
Period
1940-1980
Period
circa 1960
Gemstone
Bracelet: 122 x round brilliant cut diamonds, estimated total 17.80ct
Necklace: 113 x round brilliant cut diamonds, estimated total 13.04ct
Earrings: 36 x round brilliant cut diamonds, estimated total 2.52ct
Setting
18ct yellow gold and platinum, all pieces are signed Van Cleef & Arpels, numbered and with maker's marks for Péry & Fils
Dimensions
Bracelet: length 19.0cm/7.48", width (at widest point) 2.0cm/0.78"
Necklace: 43.0cm/16.92"
Earrings: length 2.3cm/0.90", width 1.4cm/0.55"
Weight Description
Bracelet: 65.7 grams, Necklace: 80.4 grams, Earrings: 19.2 grams
REF
130005
Director’s Notes
The Serge Fabric jewellery line, named for its reference to a weave of fabric, highlights how jewellery was directly inspired by fashion throughout the 1950s, which is also referred to as the golden age of haute couture. Van Cleef & Arpels collaborated with Cristobal Balenciaga, with their sophisticated jewels proving the perfect partnership to his creations. The use of meshes imitating fabric weaves began in the 1930s and was further developed during the 1940s, boosted by the penchant for yellow gold. It took on the most varied of aspects, with gold worked to reproduce the motifs or textures of certain fabrics, including herringbone, jersey, tulle and net. The serge mesh was one of the results of these experiments. The hinged mounts lend an unexpected movement to the pieces, with a fabric-like malleability. The first example in the collection was produced in 1951 and was directly inspired by an article of clothing - a flexible bracelet designed as a shirt cuff formed in serge fabric, fastened with a diamond set button and twisted wire buttonhole.
