The Hancocks Journal: November
Welcome to the November, 2022 edition of The Hancocks Journal.
This month we’re delighted to share with you a wonderful new addition to our tiara collection.
Made c.1890s and retailed by the Royal Warrant holding firm Carrington and Co. it is designed as a graduated fringe of diamond-set knife-edge bars with stylised fleur-de-lys motifs topped with a single diamond. Every alternate one is embellished with scrolling foliate flourishes and the whole is set above a knife edge row set with single diamonds which detaches to allow the tiara to convert to a necklace.
The tiara comes in its original fitted leather box, lined with blue velvet and cream silk, with a little note attached inside which reads “To Mildred Dorothy Flinton on her marriage Oct 5 1910 from her Father + Mother.”
For more details of this beautiful tiara just click here.
We also have a suitably festive coloured Hancocks eternity ring embellished with beautiful hand engraving and an antique diamond brooch/ pendant with ribbons and swags and a juicy old-cut pear. Our jewel of the month is pretty special too, scroll down to take a look.
We hope you enjoy this selection of recent acquisitions and Hancocks jewels. As ever, our full collection is available to view in our Burlington Arcade boutique and on our website and our Instagram page is updated daily, all links are at the end of this newsletter.
HANCOCKS
Ruby and Emerald Eternity Ring
Our beautiful new ruby and emerald eternity ring celebrates the contrasting colours of red and green with these intensely saturated and vibrant gems. They’re set in 18ct gold which has been hand engraved with great skill by our exceptional craftsman. The stones are all French cuts which, as you probably know by now, we’re really rather fond of. The origins of the French cut can be traced back to the 15th Century however it wasn’t until much later, during the 17th Century that it really became fashionable. Having found favour with European Royalty, the style became particularly popular in France and it is likely that this is where the name originated.
EDWARDIAN
Diamond Swag Brooch
Our beautiful Edwardian diamond and platinum brooch /pendant dates to circa 1910 and is in the garland style that was so popular at this time. As is typical for these pieces, the design features ribbon bow and swag motifs with articulation and movement both actual and implied. The circular body has inner swag motifs, is surmounted by a stylised ribbon bow and suspends a single pear shape old cut diamond estimated to weigh approximately 1ct. This lovely delicate piece is set with bright and lively diamonds and the suspended stones and lower swag are well articulated allowing the diamonds to really catch the light as the wearer moves.
Jewel of the Month
Victorian Diamond Riviere Necklace 1860s
This beautiful rivière necklace is set with 82 old cut diamonds estimated to weigh a combined total of approximately 12cts. The rivière necklace was an extremely popular design in the 18th and 19th centuries and was made from both diamonds and coloured stones, in uniform and graduated rows. The name translates literally as ‘river’ which perfectly alludes to the way these rows of stones would ripple around the base of the throat when worn.
Guy Burton comments: “This necklace is a lovely example of its kind and has a delicate femininity that many do not. It even hides a little secret! The central largest diamond conceals a hinged, drop-down loop meaning that a pendant could be added at will.”
Click the image above to see more photos and full details.
Maker Spotlight
J. E. CALDWELL & Co.
A 1927 advert for Caldwell jewellery declared “For those who love beauty and who insist upon its ultimate expression, J.E. Caldwell & Co. are consistently developing new jewels in exquisite forms. The character of the gems selected, the careful thought and skill exercised in preparation and execution of designs give to these productions their individuality, exceptional charm and unmistakeable stamp of quality.” It’s quite the claim but then they had the goods and reputation to substantiate it.
The Philadelphia jewellers J.E. Caldwell & Co. was founded by James Emmot Caldwell in 1839. He was known to be a shrewd business man but also friendly and honourable, a combination which ensured his success and rapid growth. He was careful to keep abreast of fashion and developments in style so his stock offered pieces that reflected and complemented these.
Caldwell jewellery from the first half of the 20th Century is still recognised as some of the finest American jewellery of the period and the name is, as the advert said, an unmistakeable sign of quality.