October Jewel of the Month
This rare and collectible 18ct gold ‘Tissu Milanais’ bracelet is by Georges Lenfant. Dated circa 1970, it
is part of the house’s iconic ‘Optical’ collection, created during the time when Jacques Lenfant,
Georges’ son, was leading the workshop and his particular interest in gold work is evident in this
piece.
The bracelet is instantly recognisable as Lenfant due to its exceptional workmanship, artistic finishes,
textures and movement.
Born in 1880, Georges Lenfant grew up in a family of jewellers and goldsmiths and studied jewellery
making both in France and abroad before returning home to Paris and setting up his own business.
His success and reputation grew, making jewellery for many of the famous French houses notably
Cartier, Van Cleef & Arpels and Mellerio dits Meller. Georges Lenfant registered his initials as his
maker’s mark in 1909.
In 1915, Jacques, aged 11, joined the family business and went on to lead the Lenfant workshop,
choosing to remain working under his father’s maker’s mark. Post the Second World War, when
women wanted statement jewellery that reflected their independent spirit, Jacques began creating
innovative and bold pieces in gold and became one of the most highly regarded jewellers of the
1950s to 1970s.
Guy Burton, Managing Director, Hancocks London, explains: “Jacques Lenfant was fascinated by the
art of the goldsmith and one of the techniques that has become so distinctively Lenfant is seen in
this bracelet, ‘tissu milanais’, which involved incredible workmanship to creates a fabriclike, woven
effect, the gold mesh hammered to create the pattern and design.
“Lenfant pieces are characterised by their unfaultable quality workmanship. A bracelet from the
‘Optical’ collection is rare to find and the craftsmanship embodies the beauty of Lenfant jewels,
showcasing exactly why they are so collectible and sought after today.”
Jacques Lenfant’s book ‘Le Livre de la Chaîne’ features this bracelet and explores the chain and the
plethora of patterns, shapes and textures that can be created as part of his desire to preserve the art
of goldsmith chain work for future jewellery makers