Antique Japonisme Red Ground, Gold & Enamel Bracelet

Director’s Notes

The term “Japonisme” was coined by the French art critic Philippe Burty in 1872 for the interest in all things Japanese. The catalyst for jewellers’ initial inspiration was the signing of the Treaty of Kanagawa between the US and Japan in 1854, which reopened Japan up to trade with the west after a period of around 200 years. The exposure to new techniques, materials, motifs, objects and perspectives made a quick and lasting impression, with the fascination lasting for half a century, before enjoying a resurgence in the Art Deco period. This bracelet is an exceptional example of both eastern and western craftsmanship. Each panel features urushi lacquer, a natural substance made from the sap of the urushi tree, which has been used as a decorative art medium in Japan for over a thousand years. When tinted red, as it is here, it creates a deep vermilion tone, (known as Shuiro in Japanese.) This colour is associated with protection and good fortune in Japanese culture which adds another level of symbolism to the floral decoration, of which also individually hold meaning and positive messaging. The reverse of each panel reveals part of the traditional construction process. The gold-flecked texture is not purely decorative but reflects how lacquer is built up in the thin layers over a base that can include metal powders, helping to strengthen the panels and support the lacquer's curing process. The intricate gold floral designs are created using maki-e, a technique where fine gold powder is sprinkled onto the wet lacquer to form decorative motifs.