An Antique Reverse Intaglio Rock Crystal Bumble Bee Brooch

Director’s Notes

Originating in the mid-19th century in Belgium, attributed to artist Emile Marius Pradier, this reverse carving and painting technique then spread through Europe to England. A highly skilled hand was required to carve the reverse of the cabochons which are then carefully painted so that the finished result, when viewed through the dome, was as three dimensional and ‘life-like’ as possible. The term ‘Essex crystal’ is commonly used to describe this technique, however, this is due to an incorrect association with William Essex, who was the miniaturist for Queen Victoria. Essex, did not, however, create these jewels and they were in fact made popular in England during the Victorian period by Thomas Cook who made crystals for Lambeth & Co. This exceptional example depicts a bumble bee in high relief, the bee which was often associated with industriousness, connection and community. The bee continued to be popular motif in jewellery for years to come, indeed in the Art Nouveau period it can be seen in the work of René Lalique and for decades onwards the bee has always been considered to carry a symbolically positive message of loyalty and hard work.