Victorian

An Antique Reverse Intaglio Rock Crystal Bumble Bee Brooch

A Victorian 'Essex crystal' bumble bee brooch, circa 1880. The brooch is centred on a rock crystal reverse intaglio, hand carved and enamelled to depict a bumble bee, set in a rubover setting with an Etruscan style 18ct yellow gold border, to the reverse a locket back and a single pin to fasten.
£12,500.00
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Information

Subtitle
Victorian
Origin
England
Period
1750-1900
Period
circa 1880
Gemstone
1 x round carved rock crystal quartz cabochon
Setting
18ct yellow gold
Dimensions
Diameter: 4cms/1.6"
REF
129310

Director’s Notes

Originating in the mid-19th century in Belgium, attributed to artist Emile Marius Pradier, this reverse carving and painting technique then spread through Europe to England. A highly skilled hand was required to carve the reverse of the cabochons which are then carefully painted so that the finished result, when viewed through the dome, was as three dimensional and ‘life-like’ as possible. The term ‘Essex crystal’ is commonly used to describe this technique, however, this is due to an incorrect association with William Essex, who was the miniaturist for Queen Victoria. Essex, did not, however, create these jewels and they were in fact made popular in England during the Victorian period by Thomas Cook who made crystals for Lambeth & Co. This exceptional example depicts a bumble bee in high relief, the bee which was often associated with industriousness, connection and community. The bee continued to be popular motif in jewellery for years to come, indeed in the Art Nouveau period it can be seen in the work of René Lalique and for decades onwards the bee has always been considered to carry a symbolically positive message of loyalty and hard work.

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